@DurableAce asks:
I have long contemplated fitting a dynamo to my gravel bike for lighting, a Garmin, charging, etc. I favour the rim design, like Velogical.
My problem is that I am electrically clueless and worried about outputs, inputs and how to wire everything up.
Q2. Does anyone have dynamo advice for the clueless, or know of a suitable resource?
#BikeNiteQ #BikeNite #BikeTooter #Cycling #MastoBikes #BikeNite44_2026 cc @bikenite
@DurableAce @bikenite A2. I think the output of most dynamos is fairly standard, and I think it's usually AC voltage so the polarity doesn't matter if you get a light made to go with dynamo hubs.
I looked it up and it looks like the Velogical power output is the same as standard dynohubs - 6 volts AC, up to 3 Watts of power. I think that lights designed to work with other dynamos should work with the Velogical system.
If you want USB power, you will need to have a light or some sort of converter to do that. It looks like there are some lights that have a USB output, and there are dedicated devices that only have the USB output with no headlight.
@ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite A2) I really like the hub dynamo on Mrs. Lopta's Electra Townie 7D EQ. #BikeNite
@ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite A2: mostly to just buy it. Makes a huge difference having the lights be just there all the time. If you have USB charging that's a nice side benefit.
Oct 30, 2026, 11:25 PM@ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite https://www.sinewavecycles.com/ I got mine here. I probably had the bike shop put it on (when I had a 3000 mile checkup) but I've disconnected it and connected it at least once.
Oct 30, 2026, 11:36 PM@ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite The Cinq Plug isn't cheap but it takes the place of the stem cap and provides a USB port for charging. It needs the wire from the dynamo to come up through the steerer tube.
@ascentale
A2: I got my SON dynamo hub and lights (which I LOVE) from these folks:
https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/
They have a nice selection of chargers and their website provides just about all the information you would need.
@tlariv @ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite
+1 for the SON hub and for getting generator supplies from Peter White!! It's a game-changer to switch over!
Within my first few weeks of using this setup I noticed how brightly my light reflected off the street signs.
Only then did I realize that I was still wearing my sunglasses.
An hour and a half after sunset.
@tlariv @ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite I just saw today that Tout Terrain will be distributing Schmidt SON hubs in the USA. Nothing on Peter White Cycles web site about it.
https://bikepacking.com/news/friday-debrief-245/
A2: I'm heading out on my SON-equipped bike in 30 minutes for an overnighter. Love it, would buy again.
@tlariv @ascentale @bikenite Thank you for the resource. I will add it to my reading list.
Oct 31, 2026, 12:47 AM@ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite
A2: Two things to look at the dynamo and the USB power thingy
1) I have dynamos of all brands (shimano, Son, SP). Honestly they are all good. Spend as much as you want but that is not necessarily a big difference.
2) This is what convert the AC to the 5V DC of the USB. Many different products here and that is where you wallet will hurt. I have a had a cheap Kemo M172n (works OK) and I also have a Sinewave Cycles Revolution on my other bike.
Oct 31, 2026, 12:49 AM@ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite Both are little boxes that need to be fitted in a top tube bag or something. You also need a buffer battery (because when not cruising the power can be intermittent).
There are some way nicer products integrated in the lights or that fits in the steering tube if money is no object.
Oct 31, 2026, 12:52 AM@ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite That page has a lot of information and benchmark (a nice rabbit hole that will certainly help you part with more £££)
https://www.cyclingabout.com/dynamo-hub-power-drag-testing-schmidt-son-shutter-precision-shimano/
@jfparis @ascentale @bikenite Thanks! After posting my question I stumbled across that website. It seems very comprehensive. I need to spend time to understand it!
What I've occasionally struggled with are electrical explanations which don't start from the perspective of 'if you want to do this, you will need [thing]', so your opening post in reply is really helpful.
I'm sure this has the potentially to get rather spendy!
@DurableAce @jfparis @ascentale @bikenite
I have just found out by chance that getting the bearings replaced on my dynamo hub can only be done by manufacturers and will cost close to £100 plus weeks to send to Germany via Somerset
As I normally do all maintenance myself this is a body blow.
If you're investigating different hubs to buy, this is definitely something to bear in mind. But important to note both my dynamo hubs are at 75k+ with no degradation yet
Nov 2, 2026, 11:14 PM@MatthewNewell @DurableAce @ascentale @bikenite
On the topic of serviceable, I have yet to send mine for service on 30k+ km
Also seen that one recently: https://www.kasai-tech.com/why-a-field-serviceable-dynamo-hub.html
@jfparis @DurableAce @ascentale @bikenite
I will probably ride till I notice something grinding then reassess the situation. Frankly the build quality makes me think those dynamos will out last me
@MatthewNewell @jfparis @ascentale @bikenite Is it a SON dynamo hub?
@DurableAce @jfparis @ascentale @bikenite
Yes. Son Delux. It's heavy, expensive, and uncompromising but bombproof.
I only carry tiny emergency battery powered lights so have to rely on my dynamo.
@DurableAce @jfparis @ascentale @bikenite you probably want to look at your night cycling time
Lidl lights will run for 3-4 hours on a charge
Weight 75g each, so 5 will see you through a full winters night ride
And just a pair will get you a long time in the dark
Nov 2, 2026, 11:22 PM@ColmDonoghue @DurableAce @ascentale @bikenite with all due respects, I believe you are missing the point of the dynamo: It is a plug and forget solution (not need to recharge it every 4 hours)
@jfparis@rouge.eu.org @ascentale@sfba.social @DurableAce@social.vivaldi.net @bikenite@fedigroups.social And then consider whether carrying some power banks wouldn't be less effort for your use-case. Dynamos are brilliant because they mean you never have to think about bike lights; they're always there and ready to go. But a few watts don't actually go that far for charging devices, and modern batteries are cheap and very energy-dense.
With a fast-charging power bank and mains adaptor (65W) I can get about the same amount of charge in 15 minutes that I'd get from all day on a bike at loaded cyle-touring pace (using a B&M e-Werk and SON hub). Performance is likely to be better if you're lightly loaded, and worse off-road.
(A folding solar panel might also be competitive, depending on what you're actually doing and how sunny it might be.)
Another tedious issue is that USB connectors don't do well when exposed to water or rattled around, which adds to the faff of on-bike charging. (My solution is to keep the charger and battery inside the luggage, and have a simple socket direct to the dynamo mounted to the bike for it to plug into.)
@kim @jfparis @ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite battery banks also do other things :)
@kim @jfparis @ascentale @bikenite Thanks Kim. That comparison versus power bank charging is surprising. Food for thought...
Nov 3, 2026, 6:01 PM@DurableAce
IIRC, from dynamo you can get about 3W if you're going at least 20 km/h.
It's not uncommon for phones to charge at 20W or higher.
Solar panel with 10-15W power (keep in mind, that's **optimal** conditions, don't *count* on that) should be pretty easy to mount, 30W might be possible. Keep in mind it's recommended to use that for powerbank, and use that to charge phone, as phones don't like power fluctuations that changing light will cause.
@kim @jfparis @ascentale @bikenite
Nov 3, 2026, 6:24 PM@kim @jfparis @ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite
For camping trips, I find dynamo lights simpler. I can usually charge my devices in the public washroom or the ranger station, but I don't leave them unattended. So I prefer devices I can recharge in <1 hour, and then I sit and read my ebook.
Most rechargeable headlamps take more time to charge than run-time, so then I try not to use more than 45 minutes of bike headlamp per evening.
Nov 3, 2026, 6:34 PM@kim @jfparis @ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite
I have also charged a power bank at 10W, to finish charging a headlamp in the tent.
And this 8xAA charger at 11W will fill 8 batteries to 50% in 60 minutes, giving me ~5 hours of 80lux headlight with an Ixon IQ Premium.
But waiting for an hour is some faff, and my dynamo headlight is 60lux without the wait.
#BikeNite A2: The coolest thing about dynamos (or magnetos 😁) on cycles is that there's only one wire that goes from the dynamo to the light. You can't mess up the connections because there's only one.
Well, one wire for each light, so two if you have both headlight and taillight.
@bobjonkman @ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite
Not always true. Personally I cant see how single wire works.
My Son Delux, and Shutter Precision both have two wires and I think this is standard. But due ac current there is no fixed polarity so you don't need to wire lamps in a certain direction.
But you do wire in a circuit. My front light acts as a junction - two wires from dynamo plug in and light works, independently two wires protrude which are start and finish of circuit to rear lights
@MatthewNewell @bobjonkman @ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite it's meant to workthe same way single wire car power works: the body is the other wire.
It doesn't always work and selleng the system with two wires just makes it easier, they don't neet ti ask questions about frame matirial or instruct to ensure things are going through the paint.
@MatthewNewell @bobjonkman @ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite Your frame can be the second wire.
Be careful that the cable to front and rear lights are not connected incorrectly. You might get a short. Which doesn't hurt anything, but lights will simply not work. So, if the lights don't work, switch the wire connection on either side, front OR rear light (not both!).
@MatthewNewell There's also the extra complexity of headline and taillight. My Shutter Precision hub combined with B&M lights has a wiring setup where two wires go to the headlight, which has 4 connectors; you plug the two wires coming from the taillight into the headlight as well.
That said, it's not that difficult; but if you're concerned, I'd recommend having a bike shop do the installation. A reputable shop will also route the wires nicely.
@Andres4NY In the past I've had various issues with my own wire routing (for both dynamo lighting & ebike stuff). One example, I messed up a wire by putting it somewhere that rubbed against a sharp thing with each turn of the handlebars (it needed more slack). Brake/derailleur housing is partially designed designed to handle rubbing like this; electrical wiring is not. It wore through and broke. A good shop will know to avoid this.
@Andres4NY@social.ridetrans.it @MatthewNewell@mastodon.social @bobjonkman@mastodon.sdf.org @ascentale@sfba.social @DurableAce@social.vivaldi.net @bikenite@fedigroups.social One thing that I'd recommend for non-trivial dynamo wiring is to use the Schmidt coaxial cable rather than the usual figure-of-8 'bell wire' stuff that most other manufacturers use. It's a pain to terminate, but the cable looks nicer on the bike, is more flexible and seems generally more robust.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/dynamos/schmidt-coaxial-cable-5m-roll-black-2-x-05-mm/
@kim @Andres4NY @bobjonkman @ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite
It's very much personal preference - it's a very expensive way of doing it.
I much prefer the simplicity, flexibility, and lack of cost of dual core and mini spade connectors.
Especially due to fact that water ingress into a coax connector causes a short whereas spade connectors are just single wires so you would need both to get simultaneous ingress and cross-connexion to short it out.
@MatthewNewell@mastodon.social @Andres4NY@social.ridetrans.it @bobjonkman@mastodon.sdf.org @ascentale@sfba.social @DurableAce@social.vivaldi.net @bikenite@fedigroups.social I don't think water ingress is a particular problem with this stuff, the spacer isn't porous. (It's originally designed to be a microphone cable, not for RF, so the internal insulator is just solid plastic, without any air spaces.) Also, since you'd wire it so the outer conductor is 'ground', the jacket wearing through and the outer conductor shorting on the bike frame shouldn't cause the lights to stop working; it's just another layer of protection for the inner, which itself is about as robust as one half of a bell-wire.
By far the biggest issue is that unless you're well practised with crimping/soldering/heat-shrink, it's easier to make a poor termination with coax and spade connectors (unless you fork out for the expensive pre-terminated cables).
(One thing I love about the Shimano and Shutter Precision dynamos is that you can re-terminate the 'lego brick' connector with nothing more than a pokey-thing and something to strip the wire. They're also more inclined to disconnect without damage when you forget to unplug before removing the wheel, compared to spade connectors. Less robust than the Schmidt approach, but really easy to repair.)
FWIW: I have bikes with both types of dynamo/wiring, and they've never given me problems. I've had a light that was faulty from new (replaced under warranty), and another one damaged in a crash, but the dynamos and wiring Just Work™. Meanwhile, I've had countless issues with battery lights, mostly involving poor quality brackets, water ingress (particularly on rear lights) or dodgy battery contacts.
All dynamos I've ever used have a single screw lug on the bottom, and the lights have a single wire to attach to the dynamo lug. The mounting brackets have pointy screws meant to penetrate the paint on the fork or stays to complete the electrical circuit through the frame.
Mind you, these are Dutch dynamos, probably from 30+ years ago.
Fun times routing the wires, usually spiraling them around the tubes.
@bobjonkman @ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite
Not sure those would work on my carbon forks.😄 I use dynamo hubs which I build into wheels - it's not at all easy or quick. However, once the initial time investment is made they are super-reliable and easy.
My frame has routing for gear cables and brake hoses inside to keep them clean so I route the cable from hub to front light inside the front fork with the discbrake hose. I route from the front light to the back lights with rear mech cable
Your bike is fancier than my bike 😁
I've built wheels, but never with a dynamo hub. Maybe a good winter project...
@ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite
#BikeNite A2 I haven't had one on my bike since I was a kid. If you feel like you need more help than what has been provided here, feel free to ask me specific questions. I'm an electrical engineer and happy to help annotate your instructions or whatever that might help make things easier for you.
@fullywoolly @ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite
Take Ryan up on his offer! My set up got much nicer once I spoke to a sparks - even better to confer with an EE.
@fullywoolly @ascentale @bikenite Thank you, Ryan. That's very kind of you to offer. I'm still working through everyone's answers to my question which have been so helpful. I'm sure I will have some remaining questions and I will take up your offer. Thanks again 😀
@ascentale a2. I love my Son dynamo hub and light but don’t think it’s bright enough for gravel riding. I’d make sure whatever you get is bright enough and durable enough for gravel.
I found Joe Bike in Portland very helpful: https://www.joe-bike.com/product-list/accessories-1109/dynamo-hubs-lights-1263/
@ascentale @bikenite Thanks Phil!
@ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite
A2
#BikeNite #BikeTooter #Cycling #MastoBikes
I would highly recommend - everything is easier. But research really helps.
Nov 1, 2026, 6:05 PM@ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite
A2) Busch & Muller puts circuitry in the headlamp (to chop voltage spikes?); and then there is a plug to run from there to the tail lamp. So for B&M, you daisy-chain dynamo to front light, to rear light.
The AXA setups I've used allowed direct wires from dynamo to both front & rear lights (I guess AXA put the circuitry in both?).
Though I use an AXA dynamo with B&M headlight and AXA tail light, I still daisy chain them: the wire routing is a little cleaner.
Nov 1, 2026, 6:17 PM@ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite
A2b)
One side-effect of dynamo is that your light doesn't get stolen when you leave it on the bike.
One annoyance of removable lights is the need to carry them into work or the grocery store.
There are also places like sporting events, where it may not be allowed to bring a headlight inside the arena.
@NNN@urbanists.social @ascentale@sfba.social @DurableAce@social.vivaldi.net @bikenite@fedigroups.social Dynamo lights mount to the bike securely using no-nonsense technology like nuts and bolts, rather than the cheesy plastic brackets, quick-release clamps that don't tighten properly, glorified rubber bands and so on that usually feature on battery lights. Which is ironic, because the dynamo lights are usually much less heavy.
They also tend to be StVZO approved, which means no obnoxious flashing modes.
Nov 1, 2026, 6:40 PM@ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite
2c)
I've used B&M 80lux dynamo lights (about $140 in US), and I recently tried the new 60lux BRIQ-S ($60+s/h), and I'm very happy with the new one (& the new price).
I bought two from BikeInn (2x$24 + $16 s&h = $64), and it cost less than buying just one in the USA. I have no idea why it's so much cheaper to self-import B&M from EU to US. I kinda suspect the importer (Peter White ?) is setting the US price.
Nov 1, 2026, 7:37 PM@ascentale @DurableAce @bikenite A2. As fully clueless (and time-challenged) I had the LBS install a dynamo on an older mtb. The newer e-bikes came with standard dynamos. While I like them a lot, I would definitely recommend an additional helmet light. Because of their position, the dynamo can only show so much — and night cycling calls for scoping the whole scene. I set mine for farther distance than the dynamo for city riding with sparse streetlights.