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  • Mar 24, 2026, 3:05 PM

    Let's have a look at the keyboard. Actually, it's a classic Amiga 2000 keyboard, not the A4000 one with the modernized look.

    Pressing the keys felt a bit different to what I am used to. When I opened the case, I found out why. The Amiga keyboards I know use a membrane. This one is different, it has a full-size PCB.

    But that isn't the only difference.

    Seller's image of the keyboard. It's an Amiga 2000 keyboard with German layout. It has a bit of dirt here and there, but all in all it looks quite good.
    The back of the keyboard frame. It has a full-sized PCB, with a lot of diodes and wire bridges.
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Replies

  • Mar 24, 2026, 3:10 PM

    Under the keycaps, I found these silicone cups instead of the usual springs. In my opinion, they provide a slightly improved key feel. On the other hand, they are dust magnets.

    The photo was made after I cleaned up everything. There was a bit of the usual filth, but alltogether, the keyboard is in a good shape.

    Under the key caps, there are gray silicone cups instead of springs. The cup of the space key is yellow, though.
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  • Mar 24, 2026, 3:20 PM

    While I was reassembling the keyboard (and almost finished), I found out that one of the plungers is different. It has a blue base and a different mount at the top, and it's made for the space key.

    I didn't knew that, so I accidentally put the plunger into the "F6" position, and wondered why the key cap wouldn't stay on.

    So... Disassembling time again. 😒

    Closeup of two keys without key caps. The plungers look a bit different.
    Close-up of the plungers. Left: A standard plunger, with a green marker at the base. Right: The space key plunger, with a blue marker at the base. The keycap mounts at the top are shaped differently.
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  • Mar 24, 2026, 3:23 PM

    Finally, the keyboard is nice and clean again now! 😀

    Tomorrow, we'll have a look at the mainboard.

    The reassembled keyboard frame.
    The reassembled keyboard, looking almost like new.
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  • Mar 25, 2026, 2:26 PM

    Let's have a look at the mainboard. It gave me a lot of mixed emotions.

    First of all: The seller was totally open about the state of the board. I knew exactly what I was buying here. 👍

    Bird's eye view of an Amiga 4000 mainboard. It looks okay so far, except of some strange wires at the RTC and memory slot area.
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  • Mar 25, 2026, 2:32 PM

    Good: All electrolytic capacitors have already been replaced.

    Bad: I could not find a manufacturer for the SMD caps. For the two TH caps, it was definitely a cheap brand with a specified lifetime of only 1,000 h. I doubt the SMD ones are much better.

    I will remove them all again, and use Panasonic Aluminium Organic Polymer ones instead. Lifetime: 10,000 h. 🙂

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  • Mar 25, 2026, 2:49 PM

    The battery was removed. The previous owner also tried to fix the battery damage. Unfortunately it looks like the soldering equipment was insufficient. There are traces of force. Pads, vias and traces ripped from the board. 😭 They tried their best to fix the damage, but (fortunately) gave up at some point before making it worse.

    It won't be fun to fix that mess. There will be a lot of bodge wire involved.

    Battery area. There is a small SMD adapter board that is connected to the mainboard with wires. (It's a standard 74HCT174, they could have used a DIP instead?!)
    The memory area. The SIMM socket of bank 3 is missing. The PCB is showing traces of a fight, with missing solder pads, traces, and scars on the board that could stem from a screwdriver. Three pads were used to thread bodge wire to the bottom side of the board.
    Bottom side of the memory and RTC area. The PCB shows traces of damage by battery lye, but also by excessive heat from the attempt to unsolder the SIMM socket.
    Close up of the RTC area (top side). Almost all pads of U177 are missing. It seems that other components only got a bit of fresh soldering, but the area hasn't been properly cleaned up from the battery lye.
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  • Mar 25, 2026, 3:04 PM

    Time to clean up that area. I generously removed all the parts at the top and bottom. Then I cleaned old flux residues.

    After that I removed the solder mask with a fiberglass pen (wear a respirator and gloves!).

    In a last step, I used vinegar to neutralize residues of the battery lye, then washed off the vinegar.

    Well, I guess I'll also have to remove U891 and the other SIMM sockets. That's fine though, as I planned to replace the SIMM sockets with ones that have metal latches.

    RTC area, after removing most components with a heat gun.
    RTC area, after removing excessive solder and cleaning it from flux residues.
    RTC area, after removing the solder mask with a fiberglass pen.
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  • Mar 25, 2026, 3:10 PM

    Next steps here? Well, the board is too badly damaged for a simple solution. It is impossible to solder U177 back in place, as almost all of its pads are missing. But I guess I have a much better idea how to fix this. 😀

    Anyway... Tomorrow I will replace the capacitors at the other parts of the board.

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  • Mar 26, 2026, 12:18 PM

    OK, let the healing begin. 🙂 Near the floppy port, some of the parts around the capacitor looked a bit corroded. No characteristic "fish" smell though. I still decided to replace a few components.

    Close up of the floppy port area. A few components are removed with the heat gun.
    Same area. The pads have been cleaned with desoldering wick.
    Same area, with fresh components soldered in.
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  • Mar 26, 2026, 12:34 PM

    Same thing in the audio corner. I cleaned it more generously here. Maybe I should have replaced the resistors and caps as well. Hmm... I will do it next time I work on the board.

    The next steps will take more time, but I will keep you updated in this thread.

    Close up of the audio area. All electrolytic caps, two chips and two transistors have been removed.
    Same area, with fresh components soldered in again.
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