On our way back to the Chunnel we stopped at Warluis Aviation Museum, the kind of delightful place that happens when one person has a little money and a massive passion. Dilapidated airframes outside; within, a whole history of the air war over France, mostly dug up from the surrounding fields.

The proprietor was delighted to see us, let us sit in the cockpit of a Mirage, and presented me with a flower he picked.