Login
You're viewing the y.diskcat.com public feed.
  • Snep :floofHappy: @40C3snep
    Sep 18, 2025, 4:03 PM

    Got a new breaker panel installed, three phases coming in, three circuits going out in addition to a three-phase oven hookup. The bedroom/living room circuit is on phase 1. The office/kitchen circuit is on phase 2. The bathroom and hallway circuit is on phase 1, again. The three phase oven hookup is on phase 1 and phase 1 (two conductors of the three stuffed into a single 16A breaker), whilst the third phase chills in mid air, connected to nothing.

    Something doesn't seem right here :floofWoozy:

    💬 1🔄 0⭐ 3

Replies

  • 💬 4🔄 0⭐ 3
  • 💬 0🔄 1⭐ 0
  • 💬 1🔄 0⭐ 1
  • Snep :floofHappy: @40C3snep
    Sep 18, 2025, 5:03 PM

    @salty The second incoming phase is hooked up to a single circuit serving the two bathrooms and the hallway, the rest of the apartment - bedroom, living room, kitchen outlets, office, oven/stovetop - is all on phase one! The oven/stovetop doesn't have a GFCI, just regular 16A breakers (which is what's shown in the picture, phase 1 and 2 from the oven connected to incoming phase 1), whilst the three other circuits go through two three-phase GFCIs and then a 16A breaker each

    💬 1🔄 0⭐ 0
  • Snep :floofHappy: @40C3snep
    Sep 18, 2025, 5:04 PM

    @salty So basically... Everything but a couple lights and one outlet in the bathroom are on phase 1, how fun!

    💬 1🔄 0⭐ 0
  • Salty Siryussalty@zwiebel.social
    Sep 18, 2025, 5:21 PM

    @snep@y.diskcat.com Ah, I see! So there's a second row on the bottom. I guess hooking the stove up to a single 16A supply is is okay but ... why install two unused breakers then ​:blobcatgoogly:​

    💬 1🔄 0⭐ 1
  • Snep :floofHappy: @40C3snep
    Sep 18, 2025, 6:17 PM

    @salty There's actually three more rows and five spare 16A breakers! Which is why I understand even less why they didn't make use of the third phase at all...

    I was about to say "I'm sure it all works and is in spec, but feels a little iffy" but actually, not really, the single 16A breaker is well undersized for the 7.1kW stovetop hooked up to it, which at 230V (because single phase) would be up to 30A. Let alone also connecting an oven, that would definitely need its own breaker and wire then.

    Two breaker boxes without their covers, right next to each other, the left one housing the main power switch, an over voltage protection and three 16A breakers for the stove/oven hookup. The right box houses two three-phase GFCIs/RCBs in two DIN rows, followed by four more 16A breakers on each row. On the first row, two of the four breakers are connected to two circuits on phase one and phase two, on the second one, only one circuit is connected to phase 1.
    💬 1🔄 0⭐ 0
  • Salty Siryussalty@zwiebel.social
    Sep 18, 2025, 6:22 PM

    @snep@y.diskcat.com I'll buy your spares for 5€ a piece!

    I you have a full four flame stovetop then it's probably not enough yeah. Just boil a few pots of water simultaneously. I'd actually be interested if the breaker trips.

    💬 1🔄 0⭐ 1
  • 💬 1🔄 0⭐ 2
  • 💬 1🔄 0⭐ 2
  • 💬 1🔄 0⭐ 1
  • Snep :floofHappy: @40C3snep
    Sep 18, 2025, 6:32 PM

    @salty Yyyyyyup, that's probably what I'll do. And realistically, everything's already in place, I'd just have to take one of the two leads of the single 16A breaker output and screw it into the second 16A breaker that was installed specifically for the stovetop/oven in the first place right next to it. I wonder why the electricians didn't do so... Weird. :neocat_think:

    💬 0🔄 0⭐ 0
  • DrScripttdrscriptt@oldbytes.space
    Sep 19, 2025, 3:41 AM

    @snep that seems … unexpected.

    Is the oven really three phase or single phase with higher voltage from line to line compared to other single phase things on lower line to neutral?

    L-N (230?) = L-L (400?) — that seems high to me

    L-L = L-N × √3

    💬 1🔄 0⭐ 1
  • Snep :floofHappy: @40C3snep
    Sep 19, 2025, 12:39 PM

    @drscriptt The stovetop I've currently got installed can run on single phase with L1 and L2 tied to a single incoming phase, thus running on 230V and with up to 30A of current (7.1kW), though it can also be installed in a two phase configuration, splitting the load onto two 230V phases between L1 and N and L2 and N. I don't think it's built to run on the 400V between L1 and L2.

    For ovens, as far as I know, they're usually just single phase (230V, up to 16A) anyways. Still gotta get one.

    💬 2🔄 0⭐ 1
  • Snep :floofHappy: @40C3snep
    Sep 19, 2025, 12:43 PM

    @drscriptt So technically, the way the electrician set this all up works, except for the breaker.

    The wire is 2x 2.5mm² between the stovetop and the breaker in the picture, that should be enough for the 30A load between the two conductors. But it doesn't make sense to configure it this way, unless I'm missing something, since the three breakers are there, ready for use. Why not split the load and prevent the breaker from tripping when all cookers are on? :floofWoozy:

    💬 0🔄 0⭐ 0
  • 💬 0🔄 0⭐ 1
  • 💬 1🔄 0⭐ 0
  • Snep :floofHappy: @40C3snep
    Oct 3, 2025, 10:02 PM

    @fabos Nope, German installation! This really is just two phases of a 30A stovetop stuffed into a single 16A breaker before it goes to the main cutoff switch and from that out into the energy meter in the basement :neocat_laugh_sweat:

    💬 0🔄 0⭐ 1