@filippo If you'd like someone to throw this in the direction of the OpenZFS mailing lists and/or issue tracker, I can do it. The comments in the systemd service unit¹ are pretty clear and easy to follow, and it definitely sounds like an OpenZFS issue although I don't know how they'd go about fixing it.
(I don't see any cgroup related changes in the development OpenZFS on a quick skim, so it's probably not fixed there.)
¹ https://config.tuscolo.sunlight.geomys.org/#%2fetc%2fsystemd%2fsystem%2fmemcg-reclaim%40.service