Okay, here's where things seem to be at the moment, thanks for all the recommendations!
Fastmail - highly recommended, but US-based
Tuta - secure, but no IMAP support
Posteo - secure, green power, Germany
mailbox_org - German. Limits on POP3/email addresses.
Migadu.com - very DIY friendly, based in Switzerland, use on your own domains/unlimited email addresses
Hover.com
So, I am likely to go with Migadu, mostly because I am very DIY (used to host my own servers), have a bazillion domain names that need email (but with low email volumes); their service is volume-based. I will continue to maintain my other email accounts, but this allows me to carve off some of the important stuff into their own bucket and get them out of the maw of Google. It looks like Fastmail/Mailbox are good everyday options for most people, with Tuta and Posteo for the most privacy/security conscience (with negatives of not being able to use IMAP for Tuta).